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Mickey Drexler in 2015 at MadewellвЂ™s Fifth Avenue flagship В© ClГ©ment Pascal вЂњI love to work, and I love the business and I always have unfinished business. (He was famously fired from Gap and left J Crew on less than rosy terms with its backers, in both cases amid downturns.) The result is an unusual type of apparel brand, one with the agile energy of a digital startup and the weight of influence from one of the industryвЂ™s most passionate leaders.

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At Alex Mill, however, his lifelong journey of purveying the modern American uniform is a family matter and, for the first time, free from the control of the boards of directors and private equity bigwigs with which he butted heads in the past. вЂњI canвЂ™t explain it.вЂќДЄfter stepping down as the chief executive of J Crew in 2017 (and leaving the chairman post two years later), Mickey says it was only a matter of time before he would find a way to return to the fashion business full-time. вЂњItвЂ™s about the colours and the way they look together,вЂќ he says, retying the laces of his Alden bluchers. He peppers conversation with questions such as вЂњHow much did you pay for that sweater?вЂќ (too much, it turns out) or вЂњWhere did you buy that?вЂќ (from a label that copied GapвЂ™s playbook, he notes).ДЄ titan of American retail, Mickey Drexler is best known for having headed Gap and J Crew В© ClГ©ment PascalДЄlex Drexler, Somsack Sikhounmuong and Mickey Drexler В© ClГ©ment PascalДЄt one point, he takes off one of his shoes to illustrate the difference between a boring sock and one that вЂњspeaksвЂќ to him: in this case, itвЂ™s the fabric вЂ“ cashmere вЂ“ and the delightful surprise of a yellow toe and bright blue heel. A question about pricing strategy can lead to a story about Steve JobsвЂ™ first Tesla car, an anecdote from MickeyвЂ™s years on the board of Apple.

Frank and opinionated, he frequently digresses into detailed stories from his colourful career, with a sharp memory for names and numbers. HeвЂ™s a merchant who remains as obsessed and passionate about product, design and retail as he was when he started his career more thanВ 40 years ago. Mickey, 77, credits his successes to an intangible instinct for product: understanding what people want to wear and what they want to pay for it. A giant of American retail, he is best known for leading Gap and J Crew when both brands were not just mall giants, but cultural bellwethers that created and defined the American casual uniform.

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If anyone knows how to make a jacket famous, itвЂ™s Mickey.

HeвЂ™s wearing a soft, light-wash denim version of the more commonly seen worker style from Alex Mill, the apparel line his son Alex Drexler founded almost a decade ago. вЂњIВ would like this jacket to be famous,вЂќ says Mickey Drexler, pointing to his own attire on a recent spring afternoon over lunch at his usual spot, Sant Ambroeus in New York CityвЂ™s SoHo.

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